Surf Diary

Pulled up to a large swell rolling in. On advise from the bro we kept rocking to Streedagh Strand. Got im early on a high tide, it was chilly so started the day with head gear, big mistake I hate that stuff nearly drowned in my own water. Dumped that and the surf session began. 4-5ft waves rolling in, off shore and long moments of glassiness. The waves sometimes closed out but long workable lefts available.
Pulled a few experimental moves. " The king" standing straight on the board arms crossed. A great points builder. Tried some big sweaping turns back side and front side.
Connie, Matto, Neil and Paul also had a great session but on the offical score board the king move put me ahead by 50 points. (if we are being offical).
Paul scoped out the "secret spot" big potential (right at McLeans) but by the time we got there it lost its form. Hot choc and heavy rain sent us home. Monster driving session by Matto. all in all excellent surf.