Thursday, November 03, 2005
Doughmore Sunday 30th October 2005
Report:
Early morning perfection 5-7ft waves, offshore, no one out
Whoa what a days surfing, I got the biggest fastest wave of my life, who says longboards are slow, fook I reckon I got up to about 50km/hour. Down the line like a pro hanging on for dear life. I felt like I was in an old Hawiian footage of surfing. Got messy as a few more got out passed the break typical Doughmore day was coming. I let a few nice waves go through and felt tired after getting caught inside after a few ripper waves. Started to head in, bang board went from under me, straight up came down all 500 lbs of it on my head, I caught the next wave in and started to bleed, luckily I didn't black out. First official doctor required injury from surfing, 4 stiches and a week out of the water. I put the blink on the other boys. No more quality surf. Damn I wish the crowd saw my earlier wave, it was solid.
Early morning perfection 5-7ft waves, offshore, no one out
Whoa what a days surfing, I got the biggest fastest wave of my life, who says longboards are slow, fook I reckon I got up to about 50km/hour. Down the line like a pro hanging on for dear life. I felt like I was in an old Hawiian footage of surfing. Got messy as a few more got out passed the break typical Doughmore day was coming. I let a few nice waves go through and felt tired after getting caught inside after a few ripper waves. Started to head in, bang board went from under me, straight up came down all 500 lbs of it on my head, I caught the next wave in and started to bleed, luckily I didn't black out. First official doctor required injury from surfing, 4 stiches and a week out of the water. I put the blink on the other boys. No more quality surf. Damn I wish the crowd saw my earlier wave, it was solid.
Lahinch Saturday 29th October 2005
Report: 2-5ft Cleanish, off shore to cross, no wind to howling, very changable, 500 people in the water.
After a heavy night on the beer and the intoxication I had been craving from I was ready for a heavy surf. My surfing career after 5 years of travelling to the beach was actually turning into a surf career, I was really surfing now and regularly catching solid clean green waves and carving them up like an overweight Kelly Slater. My 9'1 was aching as much as me to cruise.
Lahinch looked small but I was too hungover to drive further so 1-2 ft looked good, as usual we hit the water and 1-2 ft felt a lot bigger, waves were picking up and the tide push and most of the world was sitting in the middle of Lahinch. I paddled to the left and was the furthest left on the beach. I had some classic long workable rides really just lazy surfing, but like a pro, a hard paddle in left me just standing almost drunk and reacting to the board. Luckily the board trims automatically to the left or right, she just goes the way she feels is best and it pays off. God I love that board. Solid 4 hours surfing stoked great waves Rip Curl sponsorship secure!
After a heavy night on the beer and the intoxication I had been craving from I was ready for a heavy surf. My surfing career after 5 years of travelling to the beach was actually turning into a surf career, I was really surfing now and regularly catching solid clean green waves and carving them up like an overweight Kelly Slater. My 9'1 was aching as much as me to cruise.
Lahinch looked small but I was too hungover to drive further so 1-2 ft looked good, as usual we hit the water and 1-2 ft felt a lot bigger, waves were picking up and the tide push and most of the world was sitting in the middle of Lahinch. I paddled to the left and was the furthest left on the beach. I had some classic long workable rides really just lazy surfing, but like a pro, a hard paddle in left me just standing almost drunk and reacting to the board. Luckily the board trims automatically to the left or right, she just goes the way she feels is best and it pays off. God I love that board. Solid 4 hours surfing stoked great waves Rip Curl sponsorship secure!
