Surf Diary

Sunday was spent in the pub after a filthy rave in our place in Dingle followed by all day drinking. Today the surf was lazy as was I but a nice morning session in Castlegregory and a weak evening bobble in Coulmeole was all the was managed. Still it is tropical and Dingle delivered as promised.

I sneaked off to bed early last night and hit the water with gusto this morning out in Castlegregory. Was the first in the water, it was small mellow but me and my board had a lot of fun, dodging crowds and catching waves from the back and riding them all the way to the coast. Ireland is a longboarders paradise and today was tesitment to that. Got my forward step nailed, the power it gives you. I am back and sponsorship cheques are clearing.

Lessons: the forward step and powerful paddle make you a champ!

It was so nice to get in the water. In haste I jumped in at Coulmenole when Castlegregory was pumping. after a heavy session the night be for I bobbled for a few hours before I got myself together. The evening session was amazing long workable and big mellow glassy waves. I was back!!