Monday, February 20, 2006
Strandhill/Bundoran 19th Feb 2006
Early start and long drive to the west. Arrived at strandhill and decided to check out Bundoran. The peak small, tullan big chunks arriving in. Mick jumped in off the cliff right away and was soon washed to shore. Travelled in wet suits back to Strandhill, looked good, and was nice as the tide went out, then got hairy. Vicious rips that drag you down the beach as soon as you get out back. Not many waves to write home about. Seems strandhill has been boycotted as it hasn't delivered in a while. Small bump on head. Long drive home. Good test of hero pro camera.
Saturday, February 18, 2006
Mahermore, Wicklow, 17th Feb 2006
Desparation surf, pulled up to the carpark with everyone out of the water. Very weak surf was coming in but we got in. It was small clean and inconsistant. The waves at the point were growing but had no power. A small sand bar in the middle provided the best entertainment. Little waves but a fun surf, glassy, no wind, beautiful sunset and my first sighting of the arklow wind farm. Wind on west has died down we have potential surf action this weekend.
Thursday, February 09, 2006
Big Wednesday 26th Jan 2006
Took a day off today and headed to the Peak in Bundoran today, clean 5 star surf, strandhill was not big enough. The Peak at its finest. Paddled into a few monsters short moments of glory followed by being chewed by the raging wave as it strengthened on the reef. God gave me an exit window and I took it along with the other 5 guys out there. 3 of which got washed over the rocks Old school g style. Being brave we headed to strandhill which had grown into a monster so we went on to Easkey to trytame that beast, again nature got the better of us. "the left looks moremanageable" yeah rightapart from the vicious rip, one decent wave decided to give up after about 4solid hours paddling. 5 star surf was predicted,decided I prefer 3 star surf. Thanks Magicseaweed.com only regret is not getting mashed on my 9'1" in The Peak.
Learnings:
1. Surf 2km out always looks managable from shore
2. When the guys with telephoto lenses are shooting it is probably a good day
3. Getting caught inside at the peak can kill
4. Not pushing your limits is disappointing
5. Surf induces quality sleep
Learnings:
1. Surf 2km out always looks managable from shore
2. When the guys with telephoto lenses are shooting it is probably a good day
3. Getting caught inside at the peak can kill
4. Not pushing your limits is disappointing
5. Surf induces quality sleep
7th Jan 2006 Strandhill 2 Degrees
7:30am departure, new Spanish built toll road rules.
First surf of the year!
It looked lovely but was very strong swell getting out the back was a battle. few nice waves to be had. First in the water.
all I will say is that Whiskey is the future of
surfing. the hip flask was a worthwhile item on saturday it was brassers. there was snow on the mountains behind the beach. Getting out that back was like that scene in the Matrix Revolutions where they break through the clouds and see the sun and blue sky for the first time. I made it out the back got one decent way came in freezin.
Other learnings included hoods are crap and effect surfing.
First surf of the year!
It looked lovely but was very strong swell getting out the back was a battle. few nice waves to be had. First in the water.
all I will say is that Whiskey is the future of
surfing. the hip flask was a worthwhile item on saturday it was brassers. there was snow on the mountains behind the beach. Getting out that back was like that scene in the Matrix Revolutions where they break through the clouds and see the sun and blue sky for the first time. I made it out the back got one decent way came in freezin.
Other learnings included hoods are crap and effect surfing.
6th Jan Strandhill 2 Degrees
7:30am departure, new Spanish built toll road rules.
It looked lovely but was very strong swell getting out the back was a battle. few nice waves to be had. First in the water.
all I will say is that Whiskey is the future of
surfing. the hip flask was a worthwhile item on saturday it was brassers. there was snow on the mountains behind the beach. Getting out that back was like that scene in the Matrix Revolutions where they break through the clouds and see the sun and blue sky for the first time. I made it out the back got one decent way came in freezin.
Other learnings included hoods are crap and effect surfing.
It looked lovely but was very strong swell getting out the back was a battle. few nice waves to be had. First in the water.
all I will say is that Whiskey is the future of
surfing. the hip flask was a worthwhile item on saturday it was brassers. there was snow on the mountains behind the beach. Getting out that back was like that scene in the Matrix Revolutions where they break through the clouds and see the sun and blue sky for the first time. I made it out the back got one decent way came in freezin.
Other learnings included hoods are crap and effect surfing.
