Surf Diary

Early rise pays well. matto Niall and meself hit the water first today in Lahinch, perfect 3 ft waves not a breeze in the water.
Surfed until arms fell off. It was fantastic. The amazing energy you get after a wave you can paddle forever for that moment.

The evening saw long workable rides. At first we got in on the left where the right was full of surf natzis. Not sure what the problem was. Moved 70 m to the right of the crowd and found a perfect peeling left. Serious 300+ metre rides lasting 40 seconds and through the crowds. Got some clean peelers that broke in lovely sections allowing me a few cheaky step forwards and moments where the glide took over. Love of surfing is great. I hope I gave hope to those beginners that it can be done. Photo is from lahinch surf shop almost sure it is me, we were the only ones in the water at that time, in my head it is me.

Early rise on saturday morning it was small and scrappy but a promise of an afternoon without wind was around the corner. Evening was great, was a lot better than it looked. actually was clean 2-3ft and a nice start to the new wet suit. Surfed until I had no energy. Completely surfing like a pro!!
Apparently Kelly Slater was in town last week tearing up Easky.

Matto and meself had a camping trip to the west in the bag. Perfect surf at Rossnowlagh, made for long boarding. 3-5ft Off shore and glassy
Lightning dip in Tullen.

Sunday morning saw nice surf in Strandhill 3-5ft glassy until the wind killed it all.