Surf Diary

Watched this for a while on Friday. Irish Pipe. Thanks Barry for the pics.
Seeing the guys ride it put it into perspective. HUGE!

Just think I was drinkin when this happened!

Absolutely fantastic day. Took the day off and hit the Cork road 7:30 super trucker Matto had us there post brunch and in the water by midday.
G-Town didn't deliver, small perfect squirrel waves with the phantom outside reef working. Hit Inchadoney and pulled up to about 10 guys in the water. A perfect left peeling from over at the green man. I underestimated the paddle out it was long and a lot of water moving around. Once on form the perfect waves didn't stop. Beautiful rides I was always just shy of the perfect shoulder but you can't complain. The weather was like summer even got a tan!
That was top of the surf diary. The rest of the weekend was stag related. It may take a while to recover.
I thought we had it good....check out the bros photo evidence of Clare!

Pulled up to a large swell rolling in. On advise from the bro we kept rocking to Streedagh Strand. Got im early on a high tide, it was chilly so started the day with head gear, big mistake I hate that stuff nearly drowned in my own water. Dumped that and the surf session began. 4-5ft waves rolling in, off shore and long moments of glassiness. The waves sometimes closed out but long workable lefts available.
Pulled a few experimental moves. " The king" standing straight on the board arms crossed. A great points builder. Tried some big sweaping turns back side and front side.
Connie, Matto, Neil and Paul also had a great session but on the offical score board the king move put me ahead by 50 points. (if we are being offical).
Paul scoped out the "secret spot" big potential (right at McLeans) but by the time we got there it lost its form. Hot choc and heavy rain sent us home. Monster driving session by Matto. all in all excellent surf.

Early rise pays well. matto Niall and meself hit the water first today in Lahinch, perfect 3 ft waves not a breeze in the water.
Surfed until arms fell off. It was fantastic. The amazing energy you get after a wave you can paddle forever for that moment.

The evening saw long workable rides. At first we got in on the left where the right was full of surf natzis. Not sure what the problem was. Moved 70 m to the right of the crowd and found a perfect peeling left. Serious 300+ metre rides lasting 40 seconds and through the crowds. Got some clean peelers that broke in lovely sections allowing me a few cheaky step forwards and moments where the glide took over. Love of surfing is great. I hope I gave hope to those beginners that it can be done. Photo is from lahinch surf shop almost sure it is me, we were the only ones in the water at that time, in my head it is me.

Early rise on saturday morning it was small and scrappy but a promise of an afternoon without wind was around the corner. Evening was great, was a lot better than it looked. actually was clean 2-3ft and a nice start to the new wet suit. Surfed until I had no energy. Completely surfing like a pro!!
Apparently Kelly Slater was in town last week tearing up Easky.

Matto and meself had a camping trip to the west in the bag. Perfect surf at Rossnowlagh, made for long boarding. 3-5ft Off shore and glassy
Lightning dip in Tullen.

Sunday morning saw nice surf in Strandhill 3-5ft glassy until the wind killed it all.

What a beautiful evening. Unfortunately local wicklow surf was weak, the wind swell just had no energy. My stinging sun burn didn't help matters. Got to try out the new GoPro Digital Hero so here are a few shots. We went in without wetsuits, heros!